Who can’t help but notice the gentler way of gardening that is creeping in, everywhere from show gardens to backyards? I’m a fan.
It won’t suit the obsessively tidy or those who crave razor-sharp minimalism, but the birds, beetles and all in-between are loving it. Letting go doesn’t mean letting things slide. Sometimes it’s as simple as not cutting back perennials at the end of summer and instead letting them stand – spare, beautiful, melancholic – through autumn and winter, feeding and sheltering whatever needs them.
Leaves are another revelation. Yes, they’re treacherous underfoot on paths, but swept into the garden, they become a cosy and generous mulch, feeding the soil and harbouring all sorts of lives. If dense plantings make you twitch, I sympathise – but bare earth does nobody any favours.
A layer of woodchips or other organic mulch will tidy it up while improving the soil.
Out now
Try to tackle weeds at this time of year, preferably before they have a chance to seed. Even pulling the flowers off before they’ve set seed gives you a little more time, if it is in short supply. Leave those weeds until spring, though, and they’re suddenly bolting ahead. I usually try to compost them in my bins, but I’m not averse to spreading them out of sight somewhere in the garden and letting them break down in situ.
Food for thought
Sow broad beans, coriander, lettuce, parsnip, peas, radish, rocket, spinach, pak choy, carrots, beetroot and silverbeet.
Plant winter vegetable seedlings, such as beetroot, bok choy, cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, kale, lettuces, parsley and spring onions.
Steal this look
Evergreen trees are most commonly used for topiary, but deciduous species can be just as effective, especially marcescent ones like European beech and the column-clipped hornbeams, pictured here. The leaves of marcescent trees turn brown and remain on the stems (when the plant is often mistaken for being dead or dying) until the spring growth eventually pushes them off.
One theory is that the old leaves are kept on to protect new growth from the elements and marauding animals. Compared to the winter greens of buxus, yew and other evergreen topiary, the soft browns of the marcescents offer a moodier and more muted picture, here, toning with the golden plumy grasses and bare branches. Hornbeam and beech both make elegant and interesting formal hedges. The two species appear similar, though beech is fussier about soil and weather. On the plus side, its finely pleated leaves are glossier and brighter than the deeper-ribbed matt leaves of the hornbeam, which are also considered to have inferior winter colour.
Pot luck
Plants in pots probably need some attention now. Thin out anything congested, removing weaker or awkward stems, sometimes sacrificing a whole plant, if need be. Trim lopsided plants to balance them out and rotate, if against a wall, and you haven’t been rotating all season. Shuffle containers around to catch the lower autumn sun, and in frost-prone spots, tuck tender plants closer to shelter. Root-bound plants deserve a new home; others just a top-up of fresh mix or compost. Ease up on the watering.
How to divide perennials
Every few years, three to five it seems to work out at, perennials benefit from being lifted and divided, especially if they start to look tired or hollow in the middle. This is best done in autumn or spring. Water well the day before, then lift the whole clump, keeping as much root as you can. Once the soil is shaken or washed off, the natural fault lines usually reveal themselves. Follow those where you can, teasing roots apart by hand, or slicing cleanly if need be. Each piece needs a few strong shoots and a decent root system. Biff anything old, woody or damaged. Replant straight away, add compost if needed, firm everything in, water deeply and finish with a light mulch.
Landscape 101: Green flowers
Green flowers are guaranteed to provoke a reaction. People either love them, loathe them, or like me, hover in states of ambivalence and indecision, intrigued yet never entirely clear about how I really feel. Some gardeners avoid them altogether, unsure where on earth they fit in a colour scheme. Their fans, though, are evangelical, praising them not just as beautiful curiosities but as useful plants.
What green flowers don’t have is the hard glare of white (or the occasionally grubby look of cream), which makes them great intermediaries. But don’t be fooled by their apparent neutrality —they’re not automatically easy. Set them next to hot colours like orange or strong yellow and they can look anaemic and overwhelmed.
Where they come into their own is with whites and off-whites, adding depth and stopping a scheme from feeling flat or chalky. With pale pinks and blush tones, green acts as a buffer, keeping things soft without tipping into sugary prettiness. And with deep, cool colours — plum, aubergine, inky violet —they’re at their best. Green sharpens the contrast without turning up the volume, so to speak.
White adds light, while green adds space. With dark purples already doing a lot of visual work, white can feel abrupt, especially in strong light. Green, on the other hand, slows everything down, letting those darker tones feel richer, deeper and more settled.
Why? Green flowers are green because they retain chlorophyll, the pigment used for photosynthesis, instead of replacing it with brighter colours. This allows the flower to keep producing energy, especially in low light or shaded habitats. Many such plants rely on scent, shape or wind for pollination, so vivid colour is unnecessary.
Dream greens
- Shrubs: Rosa Green With Envy, Rosa Camouflage, Euphorbia characias Wulfenii and Hydrangea paniculata Limelight.
- Vines: Humulus lupulus (hops) and Clematis foetida (native).
- Perennials: Echinacea Mojito and Helleborus viridis.
- Annuals: Bupleurum griffithii, Molucella laevis (Bells of Ireland), Nicotiana alata Lime Green, Zinnia Queen Lime.
- Bulbs: Gladiolus Green Star; Tulipa viridiflora Spring Green, Ixia viridiflora.
Consider this
You can dig your planting holes with shovels, spades and awls, but when the ground is bony (as in stony) or clay (as in rock hard when dry and horridly, impenetrably sticky when wet), the smart gardener reaches for a mattock. Used with a chopping motion, the hefty, narrow-bladed head of this old-school tool carves through the soil. We are particular fans of this one for its easy weight and its shock-resistant handle, which says goodbye to nasty jarring. Don’t just stop with holes – mattocks are also indispensable for removing stubborn weeds and other no-longer welcome plants, big and small.
Fiskars Isocore mattock with pick head, $138, from Bunnings.
From practical tips to nutrition advice, this is more than just a gardening guide. Discover the best vegetables to harvest, plant and sow in your garden this April
What to plant in April:
Beetroot:
Planting or sowing beetroot will give you double your money in terms of value. The root of this easy-to-grow vegetable is high in nutrition and extremely versatile as it can be eaten raw or cooked in a huge range of dishes. But the green tops are even better for you, high in nitrates, calcium, iron, magnesium and vitamins C, A and K. Beet greens are said to be ranked in the top 10 of the world’s healthiest foods, so don’t chuck them in the compost – add them to salads, soups and stir-fries.
Parsley Seedings:
Plant your parsley seedlings into moisture-retentive soil that’s well-drained and rich in organic matter. Plant in a pot if your soil isn’t suitable.
Vegetable Seedlings:
Seedlings of broad beans, broccoli, cauliflower, lettuce and cabbage can go into the garden now.
Peas:
We’re big fans of growing peas in the garden because they’re easy and little ones love to eat them straight from the vine. These days there are so many pea varieties, from sugar snap and snow peas to climbers and asparagus peas.
Plant in well-drained soil that has plenty of organic matter added beforehand, ideally not where you’ve just finished growing peas or beans. If you live in the Wairarapa, growing peas is banned at the moment to reduce the spread of pea weevil.
What to harvest in April:
Kūmara:
Harvest kumara when the foliage turns yellow. Tubers should be left to dry for a week so they cure properly before storing.
Rocket:
Pick rocket continuously, especially if the weather stays hot. Harvest both leaves and flowers to avoid plants going to seed and encourage plants to keep producing new leaves. Young leaves are milder and tastier.
Leeks:
When leeks are about 2-3cm wide they’re ready for harvest. You can leave them in the ground but if flowers start to appear, dig your leeks up.
Tomatoes:
Vine-ripened tomatoes are the best but don’t leave them too long on the plant or they’ll turn soft and lose flavour quickly. Always keep your tomatoes in a cool, dry cupboard after picking, not the fridge, as the cold kills their taste. Green tomatoes can be left to ripen on the window sill.
Yams:
If yams taste bitter after harvesting, leave them in the sun for a few days afterwards.
Apples:
When apple trees start to drop their fruit that usually means they’re ready to harvest. If you’re not sure, take a bite; the flesh should be white or yellow, crisp and a little sweet.
Grapes:
Late-season grapes should be ripening this month. Keep bunches in the fridge and only wash them just before eating or they will be prone
What to sow in April:
Chives:
When space is tight, growing chives is a good alternative to onions. As well as providing great flavour for sauces and salads, they grow pretty pink flowers in spring. Sow in pots, window boxes or into the garden in a sunny position.
Mustard:
If you have bare areas in the garden during winter, sow a green manure crop like mustard or lupins. This should be cut down in spring while soft and leafy (not woody) so it can be easily dug into the ground, adding valuable organic matter as well as suppressing weeds.
Broad beans:
Broad beans are an easy winter crop. For a spring harvest, sow seed now in punnets or into the garden as long as the soil is fertile and friable. If you’re short on space choose dwarf varieties.
Salad greens:
Now the weather is cooler (and the ground moister) salad greens will be easier to grow. If frosts are likely at your place, wait until spring, otherwise sow directly into the ground or containers and keep well watered. Protect from snails, too. There are plenty of salad seed mixes available now; try a mesclun kale blend or a mesclun Italian mix from Kings Seeds.
Winter vegetables:
Cauliflower, silverbeet and spinach seeds can be sown in trays for planting when seedlings are established and less vulnerable to pest attacks.
Related posts:
- How to care for a Mediterranean-style potted olive tree
- The secret to growing rosemary from cuttings
- Our gardening editor shares fresh ideas for common plants
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